Out and About in Costa Rica

Two day trips took Alice and Paddy two different directions: the first across Golfo Dulce by ferry to Puerto Jimenez, where we searched for the scarlet macaws famous in that area. We saw bright red dragonflies, birds and a crocodile in a mangrove swamp, and lots of butterflies- too fast to photograph. Another day we rode a bus into the interior in search of new sights. We were in Rio Claro, Palma Norte, Palma Sur, and Sierpe, where we ate lunch on the edge of the Rio Sierpe. By the time we got to the restaurant it was pouring rain- see it running off the tin roof, above. We visited with two American women who had just returned from a three hour river trip, where they saw crocs, and THREE species of monkeys- howler, white-face, and squirrel. In all the time we have been here we have never seen a monkey!!

Pavones, Costa Rica ~ a Neat Getaway

Paddy Landrum, one of our friends in Golfito, and Alice took off early one morning for a 2 1/2 hour bus ride to Pavones, world-known by surfers. This is NOT the high season, but we just wanted to get away. A city-type bus took us TO the river, shown above. We then rode a ferry to the other side and boarded a big old school bus for the rest of the trip! We even got to ride with the school children as they headed home- very early. Schools run double sessions so students either attend in the morning or the afternoon. Upon arriving, we looked around for a cabina, not wanting to spend the cost of a hotel. Many homes either have cabins for rent or, in this case, rooms had been added to the family home: check out all the surf decals on the fridge for patron use that was right outside our room ($30 a night). Although the town was very quiet and so was the sea, it was a very relaxing and enjoyable break.

WAHOO!

We'd been told that wahoo was a great catch, but we had never caught one. We lost three lures in Panama to unknown critters and we were suspicious they were wahoo strikes, so when we put out our lines the last time Bill made sure he used steel leaders. A while later, this fellow struck. Unable to bite through the leader, Bill reeled him in. But he got his revenge, biting a nice hole in our net as we hauled him aboard! You can see his head protuding in the above photo. Then we could see the rows of sharp, triangular teeth... later the same day Bill went to check the lines and found one with the lure AND the steel leader gone... somewhere there is a huge fish swimming about with a hook and leader in his mouth! Alice broiled a nice pan of wahoo steaks to share with our friends here. (FYI Wahoo is ONO in Hawaii.)

Up close with a Humpback!

Much of this latest trip found us on long rolling seas, with swells up to five or six feet- easily enough to 'hide' a small fishing boat from our view. We had seen so many logs amongst the ever-present flotsam and jetsam that Alice didn't think too much of it when she thought she saw a huge log off in the distance, appearing and disappearing... by the time she pointed it out to Bill the log had become a whale! She grabbed her camera, but never saw that one again. A couple of hours later, however, a whale surfaced just off our port bow and only a couple of hundred feet ahead of us~ it seemed to be having a feeding feast as it repeatedly dove straight down in the water. Bill stopped the boat, afraid of hitting it, and we then watched as it surfaced and glided across our bow, diving one last time and disappearing. As usual, the best shot is the mental photo we have when we first saw the big boy rolling in the water. By the time you pick up a camera, even though it is sitting right next to you, the moment is often gone!

One Scary Night...

Bill says he wasn't scared, and Alice wasn't ringing her hands, but the prospects of being adrift in open water for four hours (2 AM to 6 AM) without our engine was no fun. We had planned an overnighter from Islas Las Perlas to Bahia Honda in Western Panama. Rounding the point on the western edge of the Azuero Peninsula, Bill made sure he had the autopilot set and then turned the watch time over to Alice so he could get some sleep. At about 2 AM, she caught an odd odor and began to scan the helm controls, soon spotting the engine totally overheated! So she ran to wake up Bill, who upon opening the engine room hatch was met with billowing steam: turn off the engine! It turned out to be the culprit above: the belt for the raw water pump (a good one is on the left). Nearly all the salt water that normally cools the engine was gone, so it took about 20 gallons to get that refilled; then Bill put a fan in the engine room, gathered his tools, and went to work in a small, awkward, steamy space to take off the shredded belt and put a new one on. Meanwhile, Alice sat at the helm watching the GPS, depth finder, and radar to make sure that we were not drifting into shallow water. We did drift 3-4 miles BACKWARDS but remained in 220 feet of water, thankfully. Time for lots of prayers... we are so grateful for our Father in Heaven's constant care over us as we travel!

Panama's Beautiful Islands

When we left Panama City we headed 30 miles south to Islas Las Perlas, a 200 island archipelago. We stayed first at Isla Contadora where we had anchored before. Then we toured the eastern edge of the islands, ending at Isla San Jose for anchoring. The bay was large and a bit rolly, but okay for one night. Bill pulled out before light, and headed west on an overnighter. Upon our arrival at Bahia Honda the next afternoon, we were tickled with a super calm anchorage and lovely surroundings. This is where we were visited by not just one, but two small boats with family members onboard as it was Sunday. They were hawking their produce for either gasoline, money, or food items. So we wound up with bananas, oranges, a gigantic papaya, spinach, and peppers; they with money, cookies, boxed milk and canned goods, with some pens and pencils thrown in! Bill's brother Barry had enountered frequent opportunities to barter with locals in the early 1990's, but this was a rare occasion for us. The next day found us on our way to Isla Parida, high in the Gulf of Chiriqui in western Panama. This last anchorage was fairly calm and treated us to a beautiful sunset as we spent our last night in Panama on anchor. After four months there, it was bittersweet to know we would never see these gorgeous tropical anchorages again.

MILDEW- With apologies to Dr. Seuss

Mildew, mildew everywhere!
Is that mildew in my hair?
Mildew growing on my suitcase,
Mildew growing on my shoes -
Mildew growing on Bill's hat:
Now that is some bad news!
Mildew on the ceiling,
Mildew on the walls -
Mildew on the cupboards,
Mildew down the halls...
Go away gray mildew.
Don't ever come ye back!
Our lives are best without you -
And that is just a fact!

The latest in the long collection of poems Alice has written since leaving San Diego on 2 November 2005. We will be SO glad when we return to a drier climate!

The Panama City Temple ~ Dedicated in 2008

One can see the Panama Canal from the temple grounds.

Miraflores Locks ~ Pacific Panama Canal

Bill and Alice toured the facility at the Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal, arriving just in time to see the last vessel of the morning transit from the lower lock to the higher lock and then out into the open channel leading to Gatun Lake. Bill took video and Alice took still photos of the amazing process!

Then we enjoyed a stroll through the museum and watched a movie presentation regarding the current expansion project which will allow the world's supertankers to transit the Panama Canal. Currently, the locks will not accommodate the largest tankers.

Following our visit to the Canal we drove to the Panama City Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, which sits on a hill above the right bank of the canal. It is a beautiful building in a beautiful setting. Corozal American Cemetery lies at the base of the temple site and is the resting place for American military and their dependents, one of 24 American cemeteries on foreign soil around the world.